So, Saturday, I did in fact go to Brighton on about three hours of sleep, which hopefully did marvelous things for my sleep schedule. Anyway, I was officially ‘up’ at 6 a.m., out the door by 6:45, on the tube by 7, and at Victoria Coach Station by 7:30 to catch my 8:00 coach to Brighton! We arrived by ten after ten following a lovely tour through the south of England and through some of the more quaint suburbs of London.
I have to say, Brighton isn’t what I thought it would be, given its reputation as a popular seaside town. I thought it would be more along the lines of Charleston or Cape May or what I remember of Atlantic/Neptune Beach. But it was rather dingy and dirty feeling. I know it’s difficult to keep buildings looking nice when they are constantly battered by sea air and wind and salt and everything, but it wasn’t really bright and colorful or happy-looking. It certainly wasn’t a place I would look forward to as a summer destination.
As soon as I got off the bus, I almost ran down the street to the boardwalk, the pier, and the ocean. Brighton has some really lovely ocean views, just a straight stretch, and even though it was cloudy and dull out, the sea looked wonderful. The Brighton Pier, where they have food and fair-esque type activities and rides, was off to my right. I wandered a little ways down it, but didn’t really go in, since it was kind of deserted and a tad bit sketchy. Instead, I turned and walked towards the city center, up to the Pavilion Gardens for a tour of George IV’s Royal Pavilion. It was a royal palace in use until Queen Victoria sold it to the town of Brighton and Hove, and the town has been using it and restoring it ever since. The Royal Pavilion is exquisite, very lavishly decorated. It is done in a western translation of eastern style, with lots of turnip shaped minarets and stuccoed exterior walls. The interior is truly a sight to behold. Georgey definitely outdid himself. The first room that you go into is definitely in a Chinese style, but the second room knocks your socks off. There is a huge light fixture overhead done in the style of a painted paper lantern, and the trim is painted and sculpted to look like bamboo. There are artifacts everywhere, and the wall paper is beautiful. After that, you go into the Banquet Room, which is a site to behold. It’s incredible. The motif here and later in the Music Room is dragons, and they are everywhere. It’s the central chandelier, extended over the long table, that takes the cake, though. At the pinnacle is a dragon that crouches over the entire thing, neck stretched and tongue flickering down at those below. IT holds the chandelier in its claws, and their are spike-like panes of glass (I think?) and knots of crystals that lead down to the base of the fixture. All of the old oil lamps would have been encased by lotus flowers, which were all held in the mouths of smaller metal dragons. The oil lamps would have made it seem as though the dragons were breathing fire into the flowers. All around the room were these dragons and lotus flowers. It was incredible, and I can hardly do a minute part of it justice.
From there, we went into the HUGE kitchen. George served massive diners–one had 36 entrees alone–and always had guests. Then, we went into the galleries that led to the music room, which is this HUGE, circular room with a domed ceiling. The ceiling is covered in gilded cockle shells, all of which look slightly pearlescent mint green in the lighting. The dragons are continued here along with snakes, there’s an organ against the far wall, a fireplace on another…just, wow. I really must try to find some pictures to show you. We were able to go upstairs after that, to see George’s bedroom and Victoria’s bedroom, plus the small library. After that, the tour of the Royal Pavilion quickly returned downstairs to the gift shop, which had utter crap postcards. Truly. I don’t know what they were thinking. I don’t have an issue with not being able to take pictures inside somewhere, but I like to get postcards so that I can remember what things looked like. /sigh
After I exited into the Royal Pavilion garden, which is much more modern park-like at the moment, given that the flowers aren’t blooming and things are starting to hibernate for the winter/die. I went out on the main drag, North Street, admired the unlit Christmas lights that cross the broad Regency street, walked up a block and turned onto Bond Street, which is the beginning of the North Laines, a quirky shopping area filled with dozens of independent shops. I hunted down a bagel place that I’d read about online and went back to the park to eat the BEST bagel I’ve had since I’ve been here. Truly, it was divine. I also shared a little bite with a poor footless pigeon (I so wanted to say penguin there!) that sort of sadly limped over to me and just gazed up with these beady little pigeon eyes. So I tossed it some bread with cream cheese..and..ha…it ate it of course, but when it turned back around to gaze at me again, it had cream cheese all over it’s beak! It was so funny. I must have looked rather silly, sitting on a bench by myself laughing at pigeon.Yeah.
Moving on. After I quickly polished off my delectable lunch, I walked back up to Bond Street and spent the next few hours shopping! I haven’t really done any shopping at all, so this was quite a bit of fun. There were two shops in particular that I adored. The first, Velvet, has two locations a few doors down from each other. One is also home furnishings, the other is a weird mix of decor, knick knacks, gifts, and clothing/shoes/bags for the younger set. I bought the sweetest journal from a UK company called Disaster Designs. It’s covered in fabric, with little appliqued girls and a balloon and a butterfly and embroidery which reads: ‘mes petits secrets’. It’s really adorable, and everyone must see it. The outside that is, not the inside. That’s where I intend to write my secrets. Not that I have very many, but still. Just in case. Actually, I shared the first secret I wrote down with Mom before I even wrote it. Sigh. I am a hopeless personal secret keeper. I keep other people’s secrets really well though! Maybe I should write other people’s secrets in it. Haha. That would be really amusing to read in 20 years, I bet.
The second store that I loved is one that I read about online, called Lavender Room. It’s this beautiful little boutique with gorgeous lingerie that I so coveted, some pretty clutches, clothing, accessories, shoes, beautiful cotton robes, fab cotton undies that were really overpriced (even the ladies intending to buy things thought so. I eavesdropped.), and fun flannel pjs. And socks! I bought a pair of the loveliest, softest, warmest socks. They are handknit woolen angora mix sockies that come up to my knees, and they are striped in a slate color and an eggplant color. I loves them. Perfect for when I’m doing work in my pjs and my tootsies get chilled. Those were my proud purchases of the day. I almost bought a sweater, but ten minutes of waiting for a dressing room to open up made me put it back on the rack and leave. I’m so patient
Then I walked up up up the streets and ventured into side streets and whatnot, admiring the outdoor cafes and the christmas lights (globes suspended on strands of lights criss crossed all of the streets! I wish I could have seen them illuminated). It was also a great opportunity to people watch. Brighton is pretty much the capital of Gay/Lesbian life in Britain, so there were some interesting characters and ensembles walking the streets. Plus, it’s a fairly artsy place, at least in certain parts. Some of the graffiti on the sides of shops was incredible. I wish I wouldn’t have stifled the urge to pull out my camera and snap a few shots of it.
After I’d seen all of the North Laines (um, twice), I crossed over North Street to see the shopping options on The Lanes, which offers an interesting mix of high street/upmarket shops (like The Gap and Next and Monsoon and things you see on Oxford Street and Regent Street) and designer thingies (Prada! Gucci!). There were also a ton of jewelry stores. Loads. And a little Baptist Church that was having a fair trade market that ended up being very small. But I went through it all, yes I did, and after that, I walked way way way up the big hill, walked down by the sea shore, and then walked all the way back up to Brighton Pier. Then, I looped back around to North Street and went to the chocolatier/patisserie that I spied on my first trip down it and indulged in a lovely slice of chocolate fudge cake. Yum. I spent my remaining time in the Pavilion Gardens, on the phone chatting with the family, before I had to catch my coach back. Just about as soon as we pulled out of the station, I passed out, and remained out until we crossed the bridge over the Thames and went flying through west/central London back to Victoria. It was a bumpy ride.
edited to show you a picture of my journal!
